PFW S/S 19
PFW is my most anticipated fashion week (I mean, it’s Paris, after all). It’s the home of some of the world’s biggest and most veteran fashion houses, so naturally, the expectations were high. And it didn’t disappoint.
If there was one thing that tied all the shows together, it’s a common sense of escapism. Whether it was Chanel’s indoor beach (where models walked barefoot in the sand, shoes in hand), Altuzarra’s bikini Suits, or Chloé’s scarf prints. Designers were all dreaming about a dreamy get away, and a long one. Why, you ask? Well, simply turn on the news. With everything that’s happening, it’s no wonder they’ve been fantasizing about an escape.
The Optional Sleeves
If you think about sleeves as a practical part of your clothing meant to keep you warm and/or cover your arms, you’re out of date. Sleeves are now as much of an accessory as your purse. Putting your hands in your sleeves is completely not mandatory, and you can play with it as much as you want. View the following images for proof;
We talked about the urge to escape that has been inspiring the fashion industry this season. Well, if you’re already escaping, at least make it to some exotic, tropical destination. And if that’s where you’re headed, be dressed appropriately. How, you ask? The answer is simple - prints!
PFW Best Shows:
I don’t really need to add a lot of words here. It’s Chloé. It’s Natacha Ramsay-Levi. Need I say more? The Chloé show Portrayed effortless chic at its finest. With scarf prints and rope detailing, it felt like vacation wear that can pass as day-to-day wear. Answer me honestly - who doesn’t want to be a Chloé girl?
Athleisure can be a very bad word in fashion. But not when Virgil Abloah does it. No one can make athletic clothing look this chic - and this approachable. If you needed some serious fitspo, Virgil’s got you covered.
The Loewe show was a parade of beautifully crafted, well executed pieces. It was the perfect combination of elegance and laid-back. It had the men’s wear element but in a more subtle way, a way that still felt a little lady-like. Basically, I need everything in my wardrobe, and fast.
The Balmain show felt, well, iconic. It was powerful - with strong silhouettes and bold geometric details, it was a feast for the eyes. Bravo.
Comme Des Garçons
Rei kawakubu is always looking for the next thing to invent. She had her “not clothes” thing going on, but for the next big thing, she searched within herself. Although the clothes might not pass as very wearable, they were relatable - they exposed her biggest insecurities, something that every woman struggles with.
Did you say black is boring? Well, first of all, who are you and what planet do you come from? Second, that’s probably because you haven’t seen the latest Valentino collection yet. Pierpaolo Piccioli proved. You. Wrong. With so many different fabrics, textures and silhouettes, There was nothing boring about this one. If you’re still not convinced (which you are) there was still some colorful options thrown in the mix for you. All I can say is- Enjoy.
I’m not sure how one’s inspiration for a collection can date so much back, and feel as relevant as this collection felt. It was romantic and soft, but smart and modern. It was a vintage dream for the contemporary dresser.
Clara Waight Keller joined in on the gender bending train. She even had a few men walking the runway - a new category both for her and Givenchy. But it still felt true to the brand’s essence. It was a 100% Givenchy. After her tribute to mr. Givenchy at Paris couture, it was interesting to see what direction she’ll go in on her own. She did not disappoint.
This was my favorite Chanel show in the past few seasons. Everything about it was simply devine - the shapes, the colors, the atmosphere. The models were walking barefoot on the especially made indoor beach, shoes in hand, dressed in a parade of colorful, oversize tweed jackets and dresses. It had the Chanel ease that is so unidentified with the brand.
To wrap up PFW with a bang. The incredible structure of the clothes, the colors, the minimalist approach - it was all there. Nicolas Ghesquiere is a genius.
Hate to end this on a sad note, but I couldn’t go on about PFW and not talk about the Céline show. It’s tragic, really. Céline was a brand all about female empowerment, catered from woman to women. It was not about how society wanted women to look, it was about how they wanted to look and dress. Phoebe Philo was taking this brand somewhere big. But when she left, Hedi Slimane (former creative director of Saint Laurent) took over. His debut collection at Céline not only paid no respect to the label’s history, archive and spirit, but it exactly what he did at Saint Laurent. This marks the death of Phoebe’s Céline, and I would follow @oldceline if I were you.